Friday, 20 April 2012

April 14/15 - Carcassonne

Carcassonne is a city in the Languedoc region of France, about 3 hours from the villa in Venelles.  Carcassonne is famous for it's upper walled city, simply called La Cite.  The upper fortified portion of the city, founded by the Visigoths, dates from about the 5th century.  Much of the attraction of the La Cite is due to heavy restoration in the mid 1850's.  As many road signs remind you, this is Cathar Country, where the battles and sieges of the catholic church's crusade against the Cathars happened.  Carcassonne was a Cathar stronghold up until 1209 when the crusaders took the city.

Our first view of La Cite, perched on the hill.  The double tower to the left is the drawbridge gate, the only entrance to the old city.  The "witches hat" tile roofs on the towers are part of the restorations done in the 1800's the originals would have been wood.
On the drawbridge.
All told there are 53 towers, one of which housed the Catholic inquisition of the 13th century.
Someone needs to tell this horse that mohawks went out in the 80's
The design of the fortified city is a double walled battlement, with a dry ditch in the centre.  This prevents attackers using siege engines to scale the walls.
One of the village squares, specifically where we ate the first night.  This is place marcou, which when the weather is nice turns into one giant outdoor bistro.  The speciality of the region is cassoulet, a dish which in it's base description is "pork and beans".  However like most things French, this dish has been raised to the pinnacle of pork and beans, forget it Heinz you have no hope.  The cassoulet of Carcassonne usually has the addition of duck (confit) to the ubiquitous pork sausage (in this region Toulouse sausage) and white beans.
View of the basilica of Saint-Nazaire approaching from the back.  This section of the basilica is gothic -- see those pointed arches, with large stained glass windows.  The front of the basilica is older, and is romanesque, with round arches, and small windows.
There are two rose windows in the North and South transepts.  This is the North end window, the South end one is out of focus.
Windows behind the main altar.
Interesting over-hung building in the old city ... of course its a restaurant, and yup, it has cassoulet.
but..there are other things to eat in Carcassonne...these are disturbing marzipans.
The gate and bridge to the castle of Carcassonne... the Chateau Comtal.  This is a very rare picture of Carcassonne as there are only 2 people in it.  In the summer Carcassonne is to be avoided as that is when most of the 4 million visitors arrive.
view back to the basilica from the chateau.  This gives you a feeling for the scope of the old city, all this is within the fortified walls.
Kind of says it all, although they need a similar sign on the outside of the gates, "Cite du Cassoulet"
The walls at night.
Believe it or not there is more to Carcassonne than the old fortified city, there are actually people living here and restaurants with something to offer other than cassoulet.  Below is a section of the Canal du Midi, which runs from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean sea.  The canal was built in the mid 1600s as a short cut from the Atlantic to the Med, that also bypassed Spain and the areas plagued by Barbary pirates.
Farewell Carcassonne.
The oldest thing in this picture is indeed the Roman era aqueduct in the background.  This is Pont du Gard, the tallest Roman aqueduct in the world at 160 feet.  It was part of an aqueduct system bringing water from Uze to the city of Nimes. Our post on Nimes the aqueduct ran 50km, and brought and estimated 200 million litres of water per day to Nimes.
The aqueduct riding off into the future, ...interesting to remember that these constructions were here long before we were, and will be here long after we aren't.

Thursday, 19 April 2012

April 7 - 11 Switzerland (Please note --- not in Provence)

Christine's parents, Heidi and Nino, have come to stay with us.  We managed to invite ourselves to visit the relatives in Switzerland for Easter.  We drove to Switzerland (6 hours) and made it to Interlaken without difficulty.  Hard to tell from the picutre below, but it is snowing outside.
Some shots of the neighbourhood.
The clock tower on the church.
It was Easter, and I guess even the Easter Bunny needs to go .... somewhere.
Very Very Swiss.
More of the neighbourhood.
This shot is basically taken from Thomas' front yard.  You can tell those are Swiss cows, a) Mountains in the background, b) Cows in the front yard.
This is the view from Thomas and Chrugi's  livingroom.  Those cloud covered bumps in the background are (L to R) the Eiger (of North Face fame) the Monch, and the Jungfrau.   Each of those mountains are 4000m peaks.  For a sense of scale, it is 5.5km from the Eiger on the L to the Jungfrau on the right.  The translations of the names are Eiger (Orge), Monch (Monk), Jungfrau (Maiden / virgin).  A joke told to us at Easter was "So why is the Jungfrau a virgin", A "You would be to if you spent that long living next to a monk"
More beautiful Swiss architecture and landscapes.  We visited what is essentially an outdoor museum, or pioneer village called Ballenberg where they have gathered up buildings that represent the characteristic architectures of the different regions in Switzerland and put them together in one place.  Add in a village forge, barns, etc and you get quite an interesting visit.

BIG cows.
This is a barn.  The roof was recently re-shingled.  The shingles are hand-split on site (spruce) ... thats alot of shingles.
Back in Interlaken, this is the Victoria Hotel
We took a train / cable car ride up into the moutains (where the skiiing is) and got a better look at our friends the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau.
My Jungfraus
See you next time, Switzerland, Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau!

Monday, 16 April 2012

March 24 - Cassis and the Calanques

Cassis is a small fishing community about 1 hour from Venelles.  We have been there a few times now, and will likely visit some more.  Brenda and Beth left the villa for a few days in Cassis and we joined them there on the weekend.  This is the beach just down from their hotel.
Beth, Rachel and Sarah, from R to L - much nicer weather than the similar shot from March 21st entry!  But the girls are in the exact same order.
Lunch at one of the many harbourside cafes.
After lunch we took a boat tour to the Calanques.  A calanque is an inlet, usually to a river, and has steep sided limestone walls - not as big a fjord, but a similar idea.  Below are some of the Cassis fishing boats (barquettes) as we head out to sea on the tour boat.
The first Calanque we come to is about 1 mile deep, and is used a harbour.
The next one down the coast has a lovely beach, accessible only by boat, or hiking several hours along the coast.
One of the Emperor islands.
Looking up at the top of the limestone walls, erosion has left some interesting spires.
and even windows.
On our way back to port.
Cassis from the sea
Sunset, the best light of the day.
Barquettes x 4
The harbour at night.

Friday, 13 April 2012

March 21 - Carmague and Aigues-Mortes

Brenda and Beth O'Neil have come to visit!  We visited them earlier in the Month in Arles.  We head off to visit the Camargue, a very large marsh south of Arles, at the Rhone river delta.  There are tour boats that will take you up the petite Rhone, and we go off to see if they are operating or not.  The day is quite windy and overcast, but despite that we get some pictures of the area's main attractions, namely the greater flamingo.  The other famous residents that we see are the black Camargue bulls (raised specifically for the bull fights that still occur in southern France and Spain ... note in the fights the bulls are not always killed, there are fights where the matador removes ribbons tied to the horns of the bull), and the Camargue horse.

 We get to the sea-side town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and find out that the boat tours are not operating, as it is too early in the season.  We take advantage of a completely deserted beach to play in the surf before lunch.
 Sisters.
 Beth, Rachel and Sarah from R to L
 We take a small ferry across the petite Rhone on our way to Aigues-Mortes, apparently stopping at the edge is important.
 We head down the road to Aigues-Mortes, a completely walled city on the sea.  In the early 1200s the king of France Louis IX had a problem.  On the west he was hemmed in by the kingdom of Aragon, and hemmed in on the East by Italy (Roman empire) - the Kindom of France did not have any access to the sea.
So if you are the king of France, what to do? - build a port.  So Louis finds a nice marshy bit near the end of the Rhone, in territory that he does control, and dredges some channels to provide access to the sea.  Add some protective towers, and a light house, and voila you are in business!
So why all the bother?  Well at the time the outfitter business was booming... you see the Crusades were on, and to go off looting you needed to get your hooligans to a sea port.  Genoa and Venice were doing a booming business, and Louis wanted in.  Louis subsequently went "all in" leaving for the 7th and 8th Crusades from his own port at Aigues-Mortes...should have paid more attention to that "mortes" bit, he died of dysentery in Tunis in 1270.

Below is the Tour de Constance, a combination garrison building and lighthouse.
 View from the walls showing the town inside the walls and the extent of the ramparts.  The walk around the top of the wall is about 1.6km.
 Moat
 Christine and Brenda looking "windswept - chic "
 View of the wall section headed towards the marsh.  In the distance are some white piles.  No not snow, salt.  There is still a good business to be had in the manufacture of salt (fill a pond with sea water, and wait), specifically Fleur du Sel.  The other business - outfitting is long gone and so is the port, it was simply too much work to keep dredging out the silt.